Ramadan Nights

Visitors to Morocco might be concerned that World War III has broken out when the wail of the air raid siren rends the evening air.  But not to worry, it is just signalling the end of fasting.  Any Moroccans not already safe indoors will be seen rushing off home for breakfast.

During Ramadan all Muslims have to refrain from eating and drinking (among other things) between sunrise and sunset.  So you can imagine there is a fair amount of clockwatching goes on towards the end of the afternoon, and great relief when the call comes from the mosque that it is time for breakfast.

Traditionally harira (soup thickened with chickpeas, lentils and pasta) with dates and chebekia (pastries cooked with honey and spices) is served to break the fast along with other tasty morsels, followed quickly by a small snack – often bread and fish –  and then later in the evening by dinner.  Sometimes dinner is delayed till round midnight and in some families the women stay up and cook couscous or tagines for the family to eat in the early morning, before fasting begins.

In the big cities you will find that the bustle that was missing during the day makes an appearance during the evenings.  After breakfast many families come out for an evening stroll in the streets, shopping and enjoying the sights and of course eating (and eating and eating).

Generally though, Ramadan is a time for staying home with family, sharing meals and sitting watching the special TV shows that most of the Arabic stations put on.  The best part of the family gatherings is the sitting round and telling stories.  Moroccans love stories of magic, witches and demons, comic stories of people pulling a fast one on their less agile neighbours but above all they are fond of riddles.  Everyone from the youngest to the oldest will chip in with their favourite and watch while everyone scratches their head trying to solve it.  But no matter how late they stay up telling stories, they always somehow manage to get up in time to eat and drink before break of day – ready for another day of fasting.